I fully grasped its height later, while examining a photograph taken one hundred yards from the complex. The picture failed to show over a dozen men working on the top edifice. Coming from the Yucatan or the Gulf coast of Mexico, take Highway 199. Definitely plan to stop at Palenque. The restaurants and hotels past the town are fine, but you won’t find four-star accommodations again until San Cristóbal de las Casas. You might spoil yourself with a better than average inn while in Palenque.

Leaving Palenque, Highway 199 is a narrow, curvy blacktop mimicking a raw river cutting through unbroken jungle. The road has few places to pull off, but there are several magical spots mixing water and tropical mountain rain forest that are must-sees. Cascadas Agua Azul and Misol-Ha’ are two sites of natural beauty that shouldn’t be overlooked. My last trip to Toniná was in November. I left Misol-Ha’ Waterfall in the late afternoon. I wanted to reach Ocosingo. I’d be driving after dark. 

Heavy rains had drenched the area. Not twenty-five miles past Misol-Há, the road worsened. I encountered the first of a dozen major league washouts in the highway. With darkness closing over the hills travel became hazardous. I drove leaning forward to see better and my arm muscles tightened with constant tension. Worse, I missed the scenery. I felt relieved when I reached Ocosingo. The town had doubled in population since my last visit. I entered from an unfamiliar point where I couldn’t find my bearings. The change, however, turned positive. I passed through the familiar central area and hit a six block section wild with happy, gossiping people. They enjoyed the evening activities of sidewalk shopping and savoring drinks, ice cream or mango, melon, banana and other fruit treats I didn’t recognize. 

I circled the blocks several times, stopping to enjoy a roasted ear of corn, sold by a sidewalk vendor, and soaked in the carnival-like atmosphere. By the time I reached the hotel at 9:30, the festivities were over. I was tempted to stay another day to capture the beehive activity on film. 

I found the same hotel where I’d stayed years earlier. Surprisingly, I got the same tiny, Spartan room. The rates had jumped from six to twenty dollars, but the increase provided a black and white television. By the time I’d enjoyed a savory steak on the balcony and talked with four Danish women enjoying a bus trip through Mexico, the little central park had darkened and fallen silent. 

A few vendors lined the street to sell to people returning from outlying clubs that rumbled with life until the late hours. I thought about visiting one or two cantinas, but wanted to get an early start to Toniná the next day. I also reflected on a near fight the last time I’d hit an Ocosingo club. 

I hadn’t been involved in the argument but when it got heated it was obvious everyone, including women, in the bar would have thrown punches. The owner got the main combatants outside and apart. I thanked heaven knowing if a melee occurred the police would manage to capture the lone North American. Tucking myself in for the night, I was glad I recalled that old promise to myself to avoid Ocosingo’s taverns. 

I slept later than intended, perhaps due to the tedious after-hours drive the day before or perhaps I just felt lazy. A fruit plate and scrambled egg breakfast, eaten in the company of the Danish women on the hotel’s balcony, made an ideal start to the morning before leaving for the ruins. The fifteen miles took forever on a poorly marked road.

A few smiling Mayan Indian girls and women attended two small tables selling trinkets and soft drinks at the entrance. Large shade trees sheltered them and created an inviting parking area. Only a car and truck indicated other tourists. 

The entry fee was just over three dollars. There weren’t any signs, but I discovered two galleries inside the surprisingly excellent little museum complex. The displays were useful to gain some knowledge of Toniná’s history. The staff was helpful and obviously proud to be associated with the archeological zone.

The dates on Toniná are still being puzzled over. The complex could have been built as early as 350 A.D., but archeologists currently think most of the monuments and clusters of temple-pyramids date from the Maya Classic era, the sixth through ninth century A.D.

A healthy walk, probably a quarter mile or more is required to reach the complex. I should’ve brought water, but didn’t realize the length of the path. Luckily it was November. At most other times of the year, I would’ve had to turn back for water before exploring. 

At the end of the lane a steep set of stairs goes down and up crossing a shallow, vegetation-choked creek. Once I topped the stairs I enjoyed my first view, an ancient ball field. Two large circular stones, resembling ancient manhole covers, lay on the field of play. A local farmer sitting on a retaining wall stood. He wanted work as a guide and insisted the stone discs were used in the ballgames once played on that ancient turf. An archeologist might have shed some light on their use but his explanation exposed the fact he had little knowledge of their original purpose.

Stepping from the ball field, I enjoyed my first full view of the Gran Plaza and the 249-foot high pyramid complex. The conglomeration of stacked edifices provided a Disney-like ambiance. A dozen or more men, appearing ant-like, worked on the highest temple.

Toniná’s construction differs from nearby Mayan complexes. The builders employed small rocks, whereas larger stones were used in other sites. Toniná may translate to “House of Stones.” This translation makes sense after the first view. Many experts on Mayan architecture believe central Mexican civilizations had more influence on Toniná than is typical of most Mayan sites. The multifarious pyramid was built on a large hill and has several main terraces.

Throughout the complex maze-like rooms adorn various terraces. Some experts speculate they had to do with astrology. Others believe they were used to hold captives. Archeologists will eventually determine if the rooms match up with the heavens at night. My guess was the quarters served both purposes, as well as other uses our modern minds will never fathom. The construction known as the “Entrance to the Labyrinth of Passages,” even in the early afternoon light is far too dark to step into without a flashlight. It is on the first level.

Toniná is noted for being a distinct dynastic center and defeating Palenque in a war. Many of the rulers are known. The friezes relate some of the site’s history. Several scenes focused on prisoners captured in battle. 

Above the replica on the stairs and to the right loomed a large flat sculpture titled “Frieze of the Dream Lords.” The wall-mural is covered by a tropical palm-thatched roof. A wire fence keeps viewers back several feet. At this level, finally, the men working at the top can be clearly discerned. 

Most notable among the frieze sculptures were inverted heads staring outward. Some theories suggest the upside down heads represent decapitated prisoners. Another sculpture I found especially interesting was a skeletal figure. I spent half an hour studying the “Frieze of the Dream Lords,” and discussing aspects of it with a young German woman who’d joined me while climbing. Surprisingly, once home and zooming in on photographs, I saw more of the scene than I did in person. I wonder if the frieze overwhelmed me, preventing concentration on a single part. 

Toniná’s elevation is 2,950 feet. There are times when clouds roll in and shroud the top of the site. I didn’t visit the complex at such a time. Toniná has 260 steps, which may relate to the complex Mayan calendar system. The higher elevation provided cooling breezes that make stopping to catch my breath and enjoy the panorama a real pleasure.

Halfway to the top stood a most intriguing structure called “The Tomb of the Earth Monster” by some, and “Temple of Agriculture” by others. It stands as a stone structure the size of a child’s play house. Within, sits a beach ball-size shaped stone. My first thought, guessing the orb must weigh 350 pounds, was, “I’d have hated to help carry the damn thing up here.” 

The theory for “The Tomb of the Earth Monster,” is the sphere represents the earth being eaten by the monster. I’ve no idea as I couldn’t make much of the intricate design covering the tomb.

Finishing my exploration, I joined a German couple for a soft drink under an open tent at the entrance. I needed the refreshment and a bit of easy conversation. I’d been hydrating myself constantly while in Mexico. This was the sixth pyramid complex I’d explored on this trip. The exercise had built me up a bit. Had I not consumed extra water daily I don’t believe I’d have enjoyed the complex so much or seen nearly half of what I accomplished. If you have the opportunity to explore Toniná, make certain you’ve been taking daily walks for a while. It’s not the type of site one should tackle while out of shape. Additionally, I’ll carry water next time. 

I’ll revisit Toniná. The mysterious site is still in the early stages of being explored and properly studied. For those who enjoy Mayan history, the Mayan Calendar and the 2012 legends, Toniná is an extra special archeological zone. The latest date of the Maya Long Count discovered so far, 909 A.D., is at Toniná. The collapse of the Mayan civilizations begins in earnest after that date.

Discuss

The Maya culture has long been a mysterious and fascinating part of Mexico’s rich history. With the abundance of ancient cultural sites, original indigenous languages, arts and crafts, cuisine, native music, dance and timeless customs, the Maya culture still thrives today in Yucatán Peninsula and beyond.

Capturing the world’s attention as the end of an era approaches, (December 21, 2012 marks the end of the Maya Long Count, a 5,125-year cycle), and the beginning of a new one draws near, here are a few ways in which you can meet the Maya and learn about their sacred cultural traditions.

Maya Day of the Dead - Hanal Pixán

Dia de los Muertos – or Day of the Dead is celebrated in Mexico as an homage of life where families throughout Mexico take part in a religious ceremony, honoring those who have passed. Through customized altars built and covered with colorful decorations, photos of loved ones, candles, paper mache skeletons or calaveras, skull candies, special breads and food and drink, the concept of death is celebrated throughout Mexico from October 31 to November 2.

November 1st, a national holiday in many historically Catholic countries, is All Saints’ Day when the spirits of children are thought to return, while November 2nd, All Souls’ Day, honors the souls of adults and all of the faithfully departed.

This time of year in Mexico is a special time to show great respect through this deeply rooted tradition and tribute to all who have passed, from babies to the elderly.

The Maya Day of the Dead is called Hanal Pixán, which translates to “feast of souls” in the Mayan language. It is celebrated similarly to Day of the Dead but with foods unique to the Maya area including mucbipollo (buried chicken), large chicken tamales wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in an underground pit with gourds of tan-chucua, a thick corn drink flavored with crushed cacao beans, pepper and aniseed. This meal is eaten and enjoyed by the Maya along with balche, an alcoholic beverage made from fermented honey and tree bark. The meal is enjoyed by both the spirits, who are thought to consume its essence, and by the participants.

It is said that during this time, the Maya abstain from certain tasks such as hunting and sewing so as not to injure one of the wandering souls.

In Yucatán, visit Mérida for special festivities in the streets and at the local cemeteries. Don’t miss the annual celebration of the “Festival of Life and Death” at Xcaret eco-park in Quintana Roo. During this festival, the park is filled with rhythmic drum beats, the scent of burning copal, faces painted like skeletons, and an abundance of orange and yellow marigolds. Special festivities include concerts, plays, dances, art exhibitions and a variety of children’s activities. Be sure to visit the park’s authentic Mexican Cemetery, built cone-shaped, with seven levels and 365 different tombs.  With more than 40 different natural and cultural attractions here, you can enhance or expand your appreciation of the Maya and Mexican culture.

Traditional Maya Bee Honey Harvesting Ceremony in Xel-Há

Twice a year, a traditional Maya bee honey-harvest ceremony (Xunaan-Cab or Melipona) takes place at Xel-Há, a natural aquarium park located in Riviera Maya, Quintana Roo.

The purpose of the festival, which is presented during a full moon in June and December, is to clean or unclog the jobones, (hollow trunks that represent beehives) and to collect the honey. Extensively cultured by the Maya for honey and regarded as sacred, the unique Melipona (of the Meliponini tribe) are stingless bees and produce a very high nutritional and medicinal type of honey.

A beautiful ceremony is conducted by a Maya priest who leads a ritual through offerings of thankfulness to Maya deities for their blessings and for the bees’ fertility. Xel-Há promotes the rescue of this ancient tradition of the Yucatán Peninsula as the Melipona bee is considered endangered.

Other activities can include a visit to Chichen Itza (any day, year round). A visit to this spectacular archeological site and large pre-Columbian city built by the Maya civilization is a must but particularly during Spring and Autumn equinoxes, in the late afternoon when the northwest corner of the pyramid casts a series of triangular shadows on El Castillo to evoke the appearance of a serpent.  Or experience Momentos Sagrados Mayas (Sacred Mayan Moments), a seasonal play and indigenous Maya festival with a cast of inhabitants from the east part of Yucatán is staged every Sunday from January to March in X’ocen near Valladolid and presented by the Laboratorio de Teatro Campesino e Indígena on an open-air stage.

As the Maya (and Mayan calendar) have captured the world’s attention, perhaps now, more than ever, participation in a cultural Maya experience is essential for any itinerary.

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